Day 67 - ice cream in the rain

Parawai Lodge —-> River Pa, Waikanae 25km

I set off with Annie, Grant and Lindsay around 7.45am. We were all eager to tackle the final peak of the Tararuas and to then get back into civilisation. I’d never wanted a hot shower so badly.

I’d walked into a tree branch the afternoon before and I was now sporting a bruise on my forehead and a small gash under my eye. My face was clearly jealous of my legs.

The climb up to the top of Pukeatua was an ascent of 700m. Over 9km, it wasn’t as steep as anything I’d tackled over the previous days but on tired legs, I knew it was going to burn.

Thankfully, the terrain underfoot was a dream (for the most part), a lovely leafy track with switchbacks making the gradient easier.

Of course, it still had the usual Tararua obstacles to get over.

As I got higher, the trees formed the path as their roots became the stepping stones to reach the top.

And still in typical Tararua fashion, when I got to the top, I couldn’t see a thing. Total white out. I sat for a while and had a little snack until it started raining.

Annie, Grant and Lindsay came past me as I was packing up so I walked and chatted with them for most of the descent. When they stopped for lunch I said goodbye and carried on through the rest of the forest before coming out into the open into an old logging forest.

The descent continued through the open, lots of steep skree putting the last of the tread on my shoes through its paces - I definitely needed to get new shoes in Wellington.

I finally came out to the car park at the other end and begrudgingly set off on a 10km road walk to my accomodation on the outskirts of Waikanae. 15 minutes in, a red car drives towards me and pulls over - you must be Katie the driver said, and she hands me an ice cream! Lindsay had called his wife from the top of Pukeatua; and asked her to bring ice creams for everyone. Knowing I was planning to walk the road, he’d told her she’d likely see me walking and give me mine along the way! What an absolute pair of legends. I never thought I’d enjoy an ice cream in the rain, but after that one, I’m questioning whether it’s the only way to eat ice cream from now on.

I went from a grumpy tired achy slow coach to a speed walker skipping along for the next couple of hours. The road was pretty empty and apart from a couple of cars (both of whom offered me a lift) I had it to myself.

I arrived at my accomodation at River Pa just after 4pm feeling pretty good, but after sitting down for ten minutes then trying to stand up again, I realised I was a bit broken. I hobbled over to the showers and under a dribble of hot water, scrubbed at the mud that felt ingrained in my skin.

River Pa wonderfully kept mattresses in their church hall for TA hikers, and with no one else arriving, I had it all to myself tonight. I lay down at about 7pm and didn’t get up again until the morning.